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Moebius 1/8th Iron Man MkVI Armour.

This page will cover the build of the Moebius Model Iron Man MkVI 1/8 scale model.

We will be using our lighting kit available in the web store and this build will be the show case for the light kit.

So far I am very impressed with this kit. I've done some research and this should be a pleasant build that doesn't have you pulling hairs after the first hour or so.

                                                                                                    Click the logo to go to the models website

Instruction Manual Downloads

Moebius Iron Man MkVI Instruction manual:

Click me to download.

SecretReeve's Lighting kit instruction manual:

 sorry, i'm still being written at the moment.

Tools needed.


Masking tape

Clear blue paint (semi transparent)

Epoxy or hot melt glue + gun

Modelling knife with chisel blade

 2mm and 8mm Drill bit

 Hand drill

 Solder Iron

 Solder Wire

Modelling knife with scalpel blade

Paints being used.

Revell Aqua Clear blue

Tamiya fine surface white primer

Revell Aqua metallic silver

  Canbrush candy foil metallic effect red

Testors graphite dust

Revell Aqua metallic gold

Un-boxing of the model

Here are some pictures of the Iron man model kit as it comes from the box.

Note the sprues are well organised, well spaced and cannot really be damaged in transport. The clear parts for the hands, eyes and chest are all on their own sprue.

Scans of the instructions will be taken and added for download in the next few days.

The box (front)

The box (back)

The lighting kit.

Here you can see the lighting kit we offer in the web store. You can see the led for the head and chest, the SMD's for the hands, DC jack socket and plug, the power switch jumper wire along with the switch. We will cover the installation of this in the below sections as we build the model.

Currently working on an advanced lighting kit for these models. This improved kit will allow buyers to adjust the brightness of each individual LED/SMD to achieve the desired effect. It will also feature improved connectivity to make installation easier.

The base

The base needed an 8mm hole drilled in it to fit the DC socket and 2 5mm holes drilled out so the outer edges are 11mm apart then cut out to form a rectangle into which the switch was installed. I used a jumper wire to connect the DC jack center pin terminal to the switches center terminal. The Other DC Jack terminal will be used for the lighting's ground wire, the other switch terminal will be used connect the lighting's +12v power feed.

1x 2mm hole has to be drilled into the base of the model under the foot which will have the power wires running through. So left foot print for left foot/leg or right foot print for right foot/leg.

The left arm and hand

I used my hot melt glue gun to secure the SMD in the middle of the "top" (opposite side of the palm) with the light emitting side pointing outwards to light the repulsor. Then I simply ran the wire through the arm making holes in any parts that would block the way of the wire. 

 Once that was done, I installed the repulsor part and it was glued up and set aside. I also had to cut out a small hole in the shoulder to let the wires pass through.


If you feel the lights are too bright, before you glue the hand parts together, paint the smd with white matt paint to dial back the brightness. Apply it in stages until you receive the desired brightness.

The right arm and hand

Here I did the exact same thing as the left arm and hand, so not much to type here.

The left leg and foot

Before playing with any wires I assembled the foot without using glue, put the foot in its foot print on the base, used a pencil to mark where the hole is and then drilled a 2mm hole in the foot. The foot was then put back on the base to make sure the holes lined up.

Once that was done, I ran the power wires down the leg, again making holes in any parts that would block the path and fed the wires through the foot. Then it was all glued up.

The right leg

Seeing as there are no wires to run through here, I just followed the instructions that came with the model with was dry fitting the parts, checking all was good then gluing them together.

The head.

It is a good idea to paint the edges of the eye inserts for the blue glow you see around the eye edges. I used Revell aqua clear blue.

I had to drill down through the neck once the two sides had been secured together with a clamp and used a file to open the holes a little more. This was to allow room for the led legs and heat shrink on them to pass through as well as wires.

The LED was fixed in a central location in the head using a hot melt glue gun. Epoxy will also do the job here.

Once the light was in place and not going anywhere, in went the eye inserts and the head glued closed.

The chest

This is possibly the hardest part due to how the model assembles. There is an archway in the chest with one of the walls of the arch going straight down the middle of the arc reactor.

This arch must be removed in order to light the chest properly, the "inner reactor" also needs to be cut out to let the light shine through to the reactor insert in the outer chest armor.

 The led should be placed in the middle of the chest where a narrower arch is. Drill a 2mm hole in it so you can feed the led legs and wires through.

Extra lighting.

I decided I wanted some extra lighting on the model from the out side. My first idea was to put some LED strip lights along the top of an acrylic display but decided against that. Instead I took a look at the base, It has a rocky/earthy kind of pattern to it so I settled on making some rocks out of polystyrene, painted them up, gave them a clear coat and sprinkled a little sand on them. I bedded a LED into each of the rocks and wired them into the base of the model.

The spot lighting will be given their own switch though, that way I can have the spot lighting on or off depending on my mood.


Connecting the lighting to the base parts

Well the first step here is to feed the power wires into the hole that was made in the base for connection to the DC jack and switch, once that is done, the model can be glued to the base.

From here, I connected the +12 feed wire from the model to the switch terminal and the ground wire from the model to the outer terminal of the DC jack socket. If you need the wires to pass through any of the"walls" in the underside of the base, just drill a 2mmhole to feed them through.

I also attached the DC jack plug to the power supply I will be using, note that the 3 pairs of grey wire is to supply power to the other 3 models Moebius do in this range. The +12v feed from the power supply was attached to the central pin of the plug and the ground to the outer terminal of the plug. Unless you are going to build the other 3 models, you wont need the grey wires.



 This is as good as time as any to go ahead and add the masking take to the clear parts of the model, the eyes, repulsors and Arc Reactor.

Primer paint

Base coat

I painted the base using Revell Aqua dark grey in the cracks and Revell Aqua beige matt for the majority color.


Primary colour

I started laying down base coats of humbrol met 16 enamel gold but the results where too dark so i used tamiya gold spray paint as the base color

I then masked off the areas which need to stay gold or be silver.

Then I applied tamiya clear red spray to the model.

Once that had dried I removed the masking tape to see the results and assembled the rest of the model.


Silver detailing

Humbrol metallic aluminum was use for the silver areas and detailing on the model.

The Finished Model Video

In the video below you can see the completed model with the lighting kit available in the store.

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